From: gary zerbst
Category: Maintenance
Date: 28 Aug 2000
Bulkhead repair performed on Zerbst's boat: 1. remove any other wood that touches the port bulkhead to make a clear working space. Remove the head door to allow better access to the forward side of the bulkhead. 2. With a sharp awl, punch through the intact teak veneer to find the limits of the punky wood inside 3. In the punky areea, drill 3/32 inch holes on about a 2" pattern where the core is really crumbly and open for injection. Space the holes closer (about 1 inch spacing) where the inside wood still has some structure. The entire interior between the surface plys needs to be saturated with epoxy. Use a fairly regular pattern of horizontal rows and vertical columns. Drill the holes only thru the teak surface laminate into the punky interior of the plywood not all the way through. Be careful, the bulkhead is surprisingly thin. . 3. Prior to mixing the epoxy and catalyst, warm some epoxy resin to flowable (injectable) consistency (if needed in winter) . The epoxy must be thin enough to flow into all the interior spaces when injected. Inject (using a small hypodermic like syringe) the epoxy into the bottom row until the epoxy appears at the next row up. Tape over the bottom holes and let it cure. Next day, redrill any hole in the next upper row that may have been sealed with epoxy and do another row etc etc etc until all rows have been injected. Now go back and drill another series of rows and columns in the middle of the spaces between the previous holes. Inject these holes too, just as you did the first batch of holes. If you've missed filling any spots previously, this should catch em. Now do the same to the other side of the bulkhead. You now have almost a solid epoxy bulkhead with a holey and messy teak skin. Sand the old bulkhead till it's smooth enough to accept an overlay. If the repaired area is visible, then get some nice looking 3/16 or 1/4 hardwood veneer plywood, cut it to size and epoxy laminate it over the newly repaired area plus a substantial overlap into the sound area of the bulkhead, then finish (varnish? oil?) per your preferences. This serves two functions. It dresses up the area and serves structurally as a sistering of the repaired area. When you're done, the bulkhead will be stronger than when it was new and just as pretty. You may have to rework some of the woodwork that intersects with the newly repaired area to compensate for the increased thickness of the sistered repair. Work slowly and carefully, measure twice and cut once etc etc etc.
Find the source of the rot (nearly always moisture) and repair it so the rot cannot recur. In my case, prevention of recurrence involved epoxying the bulkhead to the hull liner sides and overhead so as to prevent any movement between the chainplate and the deck it penetrates. Only after the miniscule but repetitive movements between chainplate and deck were cured was I able to caulk the chainplate and have the caulking job last for more than a few sails. It's been 6 yrs now and no chainplate leaks.
My punky areas were up near the chainplate, but the same type of labor intensive cure should be possible for punky areas at the bottom of the bulkhead too. (just more awkward to get to) Hope this helps!
From:
Category: Pick
Date: 27 Jan 2006
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